The Paisley
Paradise Paisley
New Collection releases 12th Oct 2023
The ‘Boteh’ or ‘Butta’
A spray of floral elements and a cypress tree
The History of the Paisley Pattern: A Journey from Persia to India and then to the United Kingdom
The paisley pattern, with its intricate and flowing teardrop motifs, has captivated and adorned fabrics for centuries. As timeless as it is mesmerizing, the history of this pattern traces back to ancient Persia, now modern-day Iran. From there, it embarked on a fascinating journey that would take it to India and eventually captivate the hearts of the people in the United Kingdom.
The origins of the paisley pattern can be traced back to the Sassanid Empire in the 3rd century AD. This ancient Persian empire was renowned for its intricate and vibrant art, which often incorporated natural elements, including flowers and trees. It was during this time that the first semblance of the paisley motif began to emerge. The symbol can be best described as a similar shape to a curving teardrop or a kidney. The symbol was called boteh (the Persian word for shrub or cluster of leaves) which is visually a combination of a spray of floral elements and a cypress tree. The buta shape is the national symbol of Azerbaijan to this day, it symbolizes fire and life source and is most commonly seen on their bright intricate woven carpets and rugs. The buta form in Azerbaijan is related to the Zoroastrian religion that dates back to the first millennium BC
However, it was in the 17th century that the paisley pattern truly flourished, as it found its way to India via the silk route- the shape was called almond or bud. The intricate pattern caught the attention of the people in the Mughal Empire, especially under the rule of Emperor Akbar. The paisley pattern, also known as "Buta" in Hindi, (colloquially referred to as the mango motif) found a fertile ground for innovation and refinement under the patronage of the Mughal emperors. It became a prominent feature in Indian textiles, particularly on shawls, which were highly sought after both locally and in international trade.
India soon became synonymous with the paisley pattern, and the craft of creating these intricate designs thrived in region of Kashmir. Skilled artisans meticulously wove each motif, often using vibrant and richly dyed threads. These exquisite shawls, adorned with the paisley pattern, were treasured as luxurious items and became highly coveted by British traders during the colonial era.
The United Kingdom's fascination with the paisley pattern began during the late 18th century. As trade flourished between India and the British Empire, these beautifully woven shawls made their way into the hands of the British elite. The paisley pattern's exotic appeal and the incredible craftsmanship captured the imagination of the fashionable British society.
The demand for paisley-patterned shawls in the United Kingdom saw the emergence of Scottish textile towns like Paisley, which soon became synonymous with the pattern itself. These towns specialized in its production, utilizing power looms to mass-produce paisley-patterned fabrics, making it more accessible to a wider audience. The weavers in Paisley began to dominate the imitation shawl market. By the 1820’s. France had its own imitation industry and shawls made in Kashmir still had a market in Asia and Europe. By the 1870’s, however, European production began to replace shawls woven by indigenous Kashmiris. While machine-woven shawls were worn, Kashmir shawls became pieces of interior design, draped over pianos, etc., to show off its masterful weaving.
With time, the paisley pattern evolved beyond textiles. It found its way onto wallpapers, furniture, ceramics, and even jewelry, permeating into every aspect of British design and culture. Its popularity surged during the Victorian era, as its whimsical nature and intricate appeal offered a counterbalance to the strict societal norms of the time.
Today, the paisley pattern remains an enduring symbol of elegance and artistic flair. It has withstood the test of time in the India and is still one of the most sort after designs on textiles whether it is woven, embroidered, block printed or printed. It continues to grace runways, interiors, and even modern accessories. Its journey from Persia to India and then to the United Kingdom highlights the powerful influence of cross-cultural encounters and the enduring allure of a design that has enchanted humanity for centuries.
This rich history has prompted the creation of our latest collection - Paradise Paisley. Taking traditional forms of the Paisley motif and translating it to hand painted silk scarves with this seasons colour palette was an immensely satisfying journey
This collection will be available on 12th Oct 2023